Disclaimer: ICONIC maintains no affiliation with Rolex. This post is entirely independent and solely intended for customer education.
Rolex watches are admired for their class and quality. Certain models from specific collections, such as the Datejust, Day-Date, and Cosmograph Daytona, which are known for their luxurious and gem-set designs, may also feature diamonds on the dial, bezel, or bracelet. When it comes to the diamonds selected for these beautiful watches, there is no compromise. Each one is carefully selected, ensuring the highest quality.
In this article, we examine the characteristics of diamond Rolex watches and delve into the diamond selection and setting processes involved in making these luxury timepieces. We also investigate Rolex’s stance on lab-grown diamonds and compare it to that of some other high-end watch brands.
Diamond Rolex watches are renowned for their exceptional craftsmanship and attention to detail. Each timepiece is a testament to Rolex’s commitment to excellence, featuring natural diamonds of the highest quality. The brand’s gemologists meticulously select high-grade diamonds, ensuring that only stones with the best clarity and color make it into their watches. These diamonds are typically Internally Flawless (IF), meaning they have no inclusions or blemishes, and are graded D, E, F, or G in color, indicating their exceptional whiteness. Each Rolex diamond is also hand-cut.
On average, a diamond Rolex watch typically contains between 44 and 50 diamonds. However, the exact number can vary depending on the specific model and design. The process of selecting and setting these diamonds is nothing short of meticulous. Each stone is carefully examined and chosen to maximize its brilliance and fire, resulting in a dazzling display of light and color. The combination of these high-quality diamonds with Rolex’s top-notch settings results in a truly stunning timepiece that exudes luxury and sophistication. Whether it’s the subtle sparkle of a diamond-studded bezel or the full-on glamour of a diamond-encrusted dial, a diamond Rolex watch is a masterpiece of both horology and jewelry.
Rolex began incorporating diamonds into their watches with the introduction of the 1804 model, which was part of the 1800 series. This model was the first Rolex watch to feature diamonds set in a white gold bezel, making it highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts, as well as kings, presidents, and heads of state.
Then, the world of watches was set alight in 1992 with the release of a new model of the Rolex Lady-Datejust, the Pearlmaster. This model is crafted exclusively from precious metals such as 18-karat rose, white, or yellow gold. Another hallmark of the Pearlmaster is its use of gemstones, including diamonds, sapphires, and rubies. These are meticulously set into the bezel and sometimes on the dial and bracelet, enhancing the watch’s opulence and brilliance. The expert manufacturing process, use of rare materials, and luxurious design makes the Pearlmaster a jewel in the face of Diamond Rolex watches.
In 2024, Rolex introduced an updated version of the Cosmograph Daytona. This model features an ice-blue dial with a radial guilloché pattern, enhancing its visual elegance. The bezel also features diamond embellisments, adding a touch of brilliance and sophistication.
Rolex follows a stringent selection process when choosing the diamonds for its watches, thereby ensuring the highest quality and ethical standards. The company exclusively uses natural diamonds that are Internally Flawless (IF) in clarity, meaning they have no visible inclusions or blemishes even under 10x magnification. This ensures that the diamonds are of the utmost purity and brilliance. In terms of color, Rolex selects diamonds within the top four grades on the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) scale: D (colorless), E, F, and G (nearly colorless). These grades ensure that the diamonds exhibit a stunning, bright white appearance, enhancing the luxury and aesthetic appeal of their watches.
The selection process involves a team of specialist gemologists who examine each diamond for its cut, clarity, color, and size. These experts use state-of-the-art analysis tools to confirm the natural origin and quality of each stone. The diamonds are then meticulously sorted to ensure they match perfectly in size and color for each watch model.
Here is a brief overview of the “4Cs” used in evaluating the quality of the diamonds for Rolex watches, as set forth by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA):
Clarity is all about how pure a diamond is. Natural diamonds often contain impurities, either internally or externally. Internal impurities are called inclusions, while surface impurities are called blemishes. As mentioned, diamond Rolex watches only feature Internally Flawless (IF) diamonds. This is an exceptionally high rating with an appropriately high price as these diamonds do not have any visible blemishes or inclusions, even under 10x magnification.
Color refers to the slight yellow or brown tint that is sometimes present in colorless diamonds. The Gemological Institute of America’s (GIA) grades on a scale from D to Z. A color grade of D denotes a completely colorless diamond, while a color grade of Z denotes a diamond with a clearly visible yellow or brown tinge. Rolex only uses D to G color grades in their watches.
Carat refers to the weight of a diamond. Diamonds are weighed with a highly sensitive machine until the fifth decimal place.
Cut refers to how well a stone is cut and proportioned. This element impacts how well a diamond refracts light, influencing its brilliance and fire.
The gem-setting process is an integral part of the production of every Rolex diamond watch, carried out in-house by Rolex’s team of skilled gemologists and gem-setters. The setting techniques are designed to maximize the light reflection and sparkle of the diamonds while ensuring they are securely placed.
We cover them in more detail below.
In a claw setting, the diamond is held in place by little metal extensions, or claws, at the four corners of each stone. This setting works best with well-faceted diamonds and is quite secure without obstructing the stone.
This setting is best suited to baguette-cut diamonds, where they are placed close together on tracks between two metal walls. Rolex uses this setting with watches that have baguette bezels.
Round diamonds are encircled with metal to hold them in place.
In a bead setting, each diamond is placed directly on the metal in a concave depression that is the same size as the stone. This setting is best for brilliant cuts as the pavé can be close-knit, creating a continuous row of diamonds that glitters from all sides.
Rolex maintains a firm stance on using only natural diamonds in their watches, emphasizing the purity and brilliance of these stones. Rolex’s commitment to natural diamonds is part of their broader dedication to maintaining the highest standards of luxury and prestige. Their gem-setting process involves expert craftsmanship, with each stone meticulously placed to enhance the watch’s overall beauty and shine. This approach aligns with Rolex’s reputation for exceptional quality and timeless style, setting them apart in the luxury watch market.
In contrast, other luxury watch brands like Breitling and TAG Heuer have embraced lab-created diamonds as part of their commitment to sustainability and innovation. Breitling announced plans to switch entirely to lab-grown diamonds by 2024, highlighting the traceability and ethical sourcing of these stones. This shift allows Breitling to offer watches with a greater volume of diamonds at potentially lower costs, while also contributing to social impact initiatives in diamond-producing communities. Similarly, TAG Heuer has incorporated colored lab-grown diamonds into its designs, showcasing modern technology and creative possibilities in watchmaking.
When considering the purchase of a diamond Rolex watch, whether new or pre-owned, there are several key factors to keep in mind to ensure you make a wise investment that complements your tastes and lifestyle. First, understand the costs involved. New diamond Rolex watches can be quite expensive due to their high-quality materials and craftsmanship, so setting a budget is crucial.
If you’re open to exploring the pre-owned market, you might find a watch that fits your wrist and style preferences at a more accessible price point. However, always ensure that any pre-owned watch comes with a certificate of authenticity to avoid flaws or counterfeit products. Pay close attention to the jewels and overall condition to ensure it meets your expectations of quality.
When buying a diamond Rolex, also consider how the watch will fit into your life. Is it meant for special occasions, like an engagement ring might be, or will it be an everyday accessory? Choose a model that aligns with your needs and personal taste.
The difference between buying new or pre-owned often comes down to availability—new watches may have waiting lists, while pre-owned options are immediately available. Whichever you choose, always shop from a reputable company to ensure the authenticity and value of your purchase. In the luxury market, this step guarantees that your investment in a Rolex becomes a cherished part of your life and style, transforming your dreams of luxury into reality.
Rolex is a brand synonymous with excellence and precision, and its diamond watches are no exception. Each diamond Rolex watch is carefully crafted to meet the brand’s exacting standards, ensuring that every timepiece is a masterpiece of horology. The value of a diamond Rolex watch lies not only in its monetary worth but also in its emotional significance.
Whether purchased as a special request or received as a surprise, a diamond Rolex watch is a treasured possession that can be passed down through generations. These watches are not just timepieces; they are heirlooms that carry with them stories and memories. For those seeking a truly unique and exclusive timepiece, a diamond Rolex watch is an investment that will appreciate in value over time. The combination of Rolex’s reputation for quality and the intrinsic value of the highest quality diamonds makes these watches a wise choice for anyone looking to own a piece of luxury jewelry.
Rolex exclusively uses natural diamonds and adheres to strict sourcing protocols to ensure that each stone complies with the Kimberley Process. This is done in a conscious effort to prevent conflict diamonds from entering their supply chain.
The value of Rolex watches can vary significantly based on the model, materials, and market demand. However, they generally range from around $12,000 to over $200,000. Diamond-set models like the GMT Master II Ice can reach prices around $485,000.
Rolex watches command high prices due to the brand’s commitment to quality, exclusivity, and luxury. Key factors include the use of premium materials, such as 904L stainless steel, which is more durable and resistant to corrosion than the standard 316L steel used by other brands. Rolex also produces its own gold alloys, refining 24K gold into 18K variants, adding to the watches’ exclusivity. The brand’s investment in research and development ensures each watch undergoes rigorous stress testing for durability and precision. Combining advanced mechanization with skilled craftsmanship, such as hand-setting diamonds, further enhances their value. Limited production creates scarcity, maintaining high demand and market value.
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